Anyone who has lived in Spokane for a few winters knows the routine: a windstorm or ice storm rolls through, trees come down on power lines, and tens of thousands of homes go dark at once. Some outages last a few hours. The big ones have left neighborhoods without power for days, sometimes close to a week. And it isn’t only winter: summer thunderstorms knock out power too, and utilities across the region now plan shutoffs during high wildfire risk. If you’re thinking about a backup generator, this backup generator buying guide covers what to know before you buy.
Start With What You Need to Power
Before comparing models, make a list of what has to keep running during an outage. For most Inland Northwest homes, that includes:
- Your heating system. Even a gas furnace needs electricity for its blower, igniter, and controls.
- Well pump, if you’re on a private well in areas like Mead, Chattaroy, or rural Kootenai County
- Sump pump, especially during late-winter snowmelt
- Refrigerator and freezer
- Medical equipment, lights, phone chargers, and internet
Your list decides whether you need a portable unit for a few essentials or a standby generator that runs the whole house.
Portable vs. Standby Generators
| Portable Generator | Standby Generator | |
|---|---|---|
| Startup | Manual: roll it out, fuel it, start it | Automatic within seconds of an outage |
| Power | Typically a few essential circuits | Essential circuits or the whole home |
| Fuel | Gasoline, or dual fuel with propane | Natural gas or propane |
| Connection | Transfer switch or interlock required | Permanently wired with a transfer switch |
| Best for | Occasional, short outages | Frequent or multi-day outages, rural homes, anyone who travels |
Portable generators cost less upfront but require you to haul them out and refuel them, often in the middle of a snowstorm. Standby generators cost more but start on their own, even when you’re not home, which protects against frozen pipes while you’re away.
Sizing Basics
Generators are rated in watts or kilowatts, and there are two numbers to watch:
- Running watts: the power a device uses once it’s on
- Starting watts: the extra surge a motor needs to start up, often two to three times its running load
Motors are the key factor. Furnace blowers, well pumps, refrigerators, and heat pump compressors all need extra power at startup, so a generator that looks big enough on paper can stall when several start at once. Portable generators commonly run from about 3,000 to 10,000 watts, while residential standby generators typically range from about 10 to 26 kilowatts.
A heat pump changes the math. Running a central heat pump on backup power usually takes a much larger generator than running a gas furnace. A licensed electrician can do a load calculation so you don’t undersize or overspend.
Choosing a Fuel
- Gasoline is easy to find but hard to store long-term, and stations may be closed or without power during a widespread outage.
- Propane stores indefinitely and works well for rural homes. In extreme cold, tank pressure drops, so size your tank for winter use.
- Natural gas offers a continuous supply wherever Avista gas service is available, with no refueling.
What Affects the Cost
Generator pricing varies widely, so it helps to know what drives it before you start collecting quotes:
- Size. A unit that runs the whole house, including a heat pump, costs more than one that covers a furnace, fridge, and a few circuits.
- Fuel connection. Running a gas line from your meter, or adding a propane tank, adds to the installation.
- Distance. The farther the generator sits from your panel and fuel source, the more wiring and piping it needs.
- Your panel. An older or full panel may need an upgrade before a transfer switch can go in.
- Permits and site prep, including the concrete or composite pad.
A good installer gives you a written, upfront price after a load assessment, not a number over the phone.
Installation and Permits
Any generator that connects to your home’s wiring needs a transfer switch or a panel interlock. This keeps your generator from backfeeding power onto utility lines, which can injure lineworkers and damage your equipment.
Standby generators also need:
- Electrical permits and inspection, plus a gas permit for natural gas or propane hookups
- Proper placement with clearance from windows, doors, and vents
- A level pad above typical snow depth
- In some homes, a panel upgrade to make room for the transfer switch
Requirements vary between the City of Spokane, Spokane County, and Kootenai County, so work with an installer who pulls permits locally.
Safety Comes First
Portable generators cause carbon monoxide poisonings every winter. Follow these rules every time:
- Never run a generator inside your home, garage, crawlspace, or shed, even with the door open.
- Keep it at least 20 feet from your home, with the exhaust pointed away from windows and doors.
- Install working carbon monoxide detectors on every level.
- Never plug a generator into a wall outlet.
- Let it cool before refueling.
Keeping It Ready for Winter
A generator that sits all year needs attention before storm season. Change the oil, check the battery, and use oil rated for cold starts. Standby units run a weekly self-test, but they still need annual professional maintenance. Adding whole home surge protection also protects your electronics from spikes when power switches between the grid and your generator.
Get Help Choosing the Right Generator
Cougar’s licensed electricians size, install, and maintain backup generators for homes across Spokane and North Idaho. Learn more about generator installation and repair, or call (509) 253-5430 to schedule a load assessment before the next storm.
